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1. The tires you bought are junk or not balanced properly.
2. A rim is bent. 3. The drum or rotor is out of round. 4. The driveshaft weight fell off or the U-joint has slop in it. You can turn OFF the engine while you are driving (place the transmission in N) to eliminate engine vibration. Then, move the tires front to rear to see if it helps. I had a vibration in my 85 Firebird once which turned out to be a drum. GM dealers have an Electronic Vibration Analyzer. Based on the frequency you can tell if its coming from the engine, transmission, driveline, wheels or some other source like brakes. |
I think naughty thoughts when I see the title of this thread.
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Blown wheel bearing. Jack up wheel. Grab at 12 and 6 o clock. Shake well. Now grab at 9 and 3 o clock. Shake well again. Any movement and you need to go ahead and inspect/replace bearing/s.
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The 9-3 checks the tire rods...the 12-6 checks the bearing. |
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I've been working on cars for 20 years and never heard of "blistering". Check to make sure the foot brake is adjusted properly in that the stoplamp switch is not adjusted too tightly. If you bleed the brake caliper, you should have seen if the fluid was moving properly. |
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It was a GM. Go figure. ETA: Link for 101. "Basic Hydraulic Components" mentions blistering :lol: http://books.google.com/books?id=sjd...age&q=&f=false |
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Just be glad yours didn't go out the way mine did. I was driving up 441 in Fort Lauderdale and hit the brakes when a pedestrian stepped from the median into the highway. When he saw me and retreated, I released the brake pedal only to have the steering wheel nearly jerked out of my hands. The left caliper maintained pressure, and to this day I'm 100% sure that poor guy things I tried to take him out. |
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