Vibration and pull.
 

...

Bad shock/strut? :idk:

cracked subframe? My shelby z had that once

bent wheel or you have a U joint failing I'd suspect. its likely your issue is caused by several individual ones.

possibly a failing wheel bearing even.

Did thirdgenlxi do the work by some chance?

http://www.pleasuremeow.com/ProductI...t_vibrator.jpg


http://www.adultnoveltyworld.om/Clie...eads%20101.jpg

Not the thread I was expecting

bad bearing\hub

My thoughts exactly! Could it be bad alignment? Did you hit anything?

It may be this but I would have thought the shop that did the balance/alignment would have caught it. They may have fucked up the balance or alignment as well. I would bring it back, especially if it wasn't doing this before you brought it there.

I think it pulling to the left might have a problem with your arms being worked out from the bike....

:whistle:
http://www.twowheelfix.com/showthread.php?t=12842

In other words... my guess is it fell off the lift at the shop. :lol

1. The tires you bought are junk or not balanced properly.

2. A rim is bent.

3. The drum or rotor is out of round.

4. The driveshaft weight fell off or the U-joint has slop in it.


You can turn OFF the engine while you are driving (place the transmission in N) to eliminate engine vibration. Then, move the tires front to rear to see if it helps. I had a vibration in my 85 Firebird once which turned out to be a drum.

GM dealers have an Electronic Vibration Analyzer. Based on the frequency you can tell if its coming from the engine, transmission, driveline, wheels or some other source like brakes.

I think naughty thoughts when I see the title of this thread.

that points to a caliper sticking then.

Check brake lines for blistering. That can maintain pressre in the caliper when you release the pedal. Really deceptive when it's blistered on the inside and the outside looks fine; worth just replacing them to rule them out if the caliper doesn't appear damaged itself.

Blown wheel bearing. Jack up wheel. Grab at 12 and 6 o clock. Shake well. Now grab at 9 and 3 o clock. Shake well again. Any movement and you need to go ahead and inspect/replace bearing/s.

The 9-3 checks the tire rods...the 12-6 checks the bearing.

I've been working on cars for 20 years and never heard of "blistering".

Check to make sure the foot brake is adjusted properly in that the stoplamp switch is not adjusted too tightly.

If you bleed the brake caliper, you should have seen if the fluid was moving properly.

Funny, it HAPPENED to my car.

It was a GM. Go figure.

ETA: Link for 101. "Basic Hydraulic Components" mentions blistering :lol:

http://books.google.com/books?id=sjd...age&q=&f=false

Sucks you have to order parts again, but at least now you know what it is.

Just be glad yours didn't go out the way mine did. I was driving up 441 in Fort Lauderdale and hit the brakes when a pedestrian stepped from the median into the highway. When he saw me and retreated, I released the brake pedal only to have the steering wheel nearly jerked out of my hands. The left caliper maintained pressure, and to this day I'm 100% sure that poor guy things I tried to take him out.

I've heard of what this describes, but it was never referred to as blistering. Usually the hose swells and collapses.

Triple, check to see if the hose collapses or swells when the brake pedal is applied and released. If it doesn't, I would be surprised if this fixes it.

When it happened to me it was undetectable from the outside. The failure occured inside the metal reinforced line so all looked fine by visible inspection, which led me to replace the caliper only to have the same problem. I had to remove the hose and shine a flashlight inside to see the collapsed area.

When you bleed the caliper, was the fluid flow normal?

Yeah, the master cylinder creates enough pressure to push fluid through the damaged/collapsed part of the hose. Visual inspection was the only way to tell (well, that or replacing everything and still having a problem).