cush drive removal
how? ive seen it done on a gsxr racebike, but the shop closed done like a year ago, cant find any1 else that has it done. personally i have a honda cbr f4 wheel, does anyone make a kit or adapter, or has any ideas?
maybe a new sprocket hub, idk. otherwise new wheel time wheel isnt damaged btw, but i have my reasons |
can u explain, im confuzled :ws:
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Not sure about the F4, but my cush drive is easy as fuck to remove. Just take the rear wheel off, remove the sprocket/hub and the cush drive's right there. The only bolts I need to remove is the ones to take the wheel off. And the ones to take the sprocket off the hub.
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thats what i was thinking, mine just comes right about
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didnt mean to befuddle ya, let me explain-i wana take it off. no more cush drive, not take it off and look at it, i want wheel/sprocket-no cush setup
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What, is there a kit out there that eliminates it? You need the cush drive.
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no i dont lol-and thats what im looking for, a kit or just directions-the gsxr i saw had the wheel drilled tapped and safety-wired and the sprocket bolted directly to the wheel-no cush. racebike
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I wouldn't waste your time/money.
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whats the benefit, again, knowing your a drag racer, im asking open minded :lol:
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I would think immediate response, but it's not like the cush drive takes forever either, you know? What's the reason behind this madness?
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true-the way the gsxr was done it wouldnt cost much-but the wheel i have is built different. time for a new wheel setup if it gives me trouble i guess
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What's true? My theory?
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two things-lil thing is immediate response thru each gear, big thing is i can perfect line up the wheels, sprockets, etc. its kinda give and take-either the wheel is perfectly straight, and the sprockets are a lil off, or vice versa. faster u go, the more the lil gremlins rear their ugly heads. just looking ahead
im looking into milling down the carrier, but i figured id try and kill two birds with one stone if i could yea-true it would probably cost too much with the wheel i have. |
Are your times that competetive, you need to do that? Or is it for safety?
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The ones in my Suzuki are 29 years old. Stress cracks and hard, but still a fairly tight fit. I think they mostly keep other parts from breaking. You could take them out, trace them on aluminum and cut them out, but like the others say, why bother.
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tranny is backcut, billet gears, clutch is strong, wont break anything |
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yeah what tigger said
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Silly bikes with their cush drives and radiator fluid and shit...
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Never have to change anything! :whistle: Would you regear (pully) your buell if it was easily available? |
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Like so: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...777/155801.jpg |
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I was thinking primary = drive pulley. :lol: |
i just wrote a detailed reply and for some reason the fuckin comp logged me out when i went to hit submit reply and it got erased so fuck it.
long story short-cush drive never was a problem, but getting rid of it would be a easy solution to a geometric problem. |
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Cool! and that log out thing has happened to me too...a couple times! |
Seroiusly... belts can do more than you will give them credit for....
I run both a primary belt and a final drive belt.. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...d/Day14061.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...d/Day14032.jpg |
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Buell street only... Then something else for track days... A cheap beater project bike most likely. |
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Don't know many 250's that can touch that. |
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I'm looking at the 1125 |
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