Suspension tuning question - Page 2

Dave · 05-22-2010, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider

Yeah, that sounds like fun. I have to go to a cousin's thing at Villanova this morning, but I'll head over your way this afternoon. Text or PM me your address.

I'm halfway looking for a place to set up my shock if I ever get it mounted. And to tune my PCIII if I ever find the money to dyno it. Speedwerkes is pretty far down there. I'd be tempted to ride all the way down to Pocomoke if I made that trip. Would love to go demo a Fischer.

De is closer than you think. Quick blast down 95

Homeslice · 05-22-2010, 11:50 AM

Yeah a lot of guys will deny this, but lowered bikes suck for handling. Not to mention they've got less ground clearance.

How was it lowered, was it simply the forks, or did it have an aftermarket link on the rear shock as well?

I would still take it to the tuner, because the geometry has totally changed now that you've raised it. For him to adjust the preload, clickers, and fork height should only cost $50-60 anyway, right?

derf · 05-22-2010, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Yea you might want to adjust that but remember that the suspension was set up for weight and shouldn't be too affected IMHO. Didn't you also go to a 17 " front wheel?

There were issues whith that wheel

derf · 05-22-2010, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Yeah a lot of guys will deny this, but lowered bikes suck for handling. Not to mention they've got less ground clearance.

How was it lowered, was it simply the forks, or did it have an aftermarket link on the rear shock as well?

I would still take it to the tuner, because the geometry has totally changed now that you've raised it. For him to adjust the preload, clickers, and fork height should only cost $50-60 anyway, right?

The bike handled fine, but it took some muscle to move it around. It was lowered by flipping the suspension link plates around, also the front wassnt lowered

Homeslice · 05-22-2010, 12:48 PM

Hmm, if rear was lowered and the front wasn't, that would explain why it turned in so slow. You should definitely take it back to the tuner, because now you've put more weight on the front end. It will probably need more preload in front to compensate. Better to take it to someone who will make measurements of what needs to be done.

Phenix_Rider · 05-22-2010, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave

De is closer than you think. Quick blast down 95

Oh, I know DE is close. I've only been through it a hundred times lately. Speedwerkes is 1.5 hours, and Fischer is only about an hour past that.

On my way to your place. Just mapping out my route now.

Captain Morgan · 05-22-2010, 03:07 PM

Buy this book and have a friend help you set up the suspension. I need to find my copy and have my brother help me with the Strom

http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Perf...4555150&sr=8-1

anthonyk · 05-22-2010, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Hmm, if rear was lowered and the front wasn't, that would explain why it turned in so slow. You should definitely take it back to the tuner, because now you've put more weight on the front end. It will probably need more preload in front to compensate. Better to take it to someone who will make measurements of what needs to be done.

Yup, more preload on the front and less on the rear. I had a situation once where the ride height adjustment on my shock somehow backed all the way down, and I had similar handling issues. After the suspension guy figured that out, he had to go back and make some other adjustments for the new weight distribution. Might have just been preload, but he might have changed compression and rebound damping, too.

No Worries · 05-22-2010, 08:49 PM

Sport Rider Magazine has suggested suspension settings for every bike they've tested since '96. Here's what they suggest for a CBR900: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html That should put you in the ballpark.

Captain Morgan · 05-22-2010, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by No Worries

Sport Rider Magazine has suggested suspension settings for every bike they've tested since '96. Here's what they suggest for a CBR900: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html That should put you in the ballpark.

Nice link. Wish they had something for the strom, but they only mention front pre-load and front damping. Don't have any numbers for any other settings.

05-22-2010, 11:50 AM	#12
Homeslice Elitist Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: SF Bay Area Moto: Gix 750 Posts: 11,351	Yeah a lot of guys will deny this, but lowered bikes suck for handling. Not to mention they've got less ground clearance. How was it lowered, was it simply the forks, or did it have an aftermarket link on the rear shock as well? I would still take it to the tuner, because the geometry has totally changed now that you've raised it. For him to adjust the preload, clickers, and fork height should only cost $50-60 anyway, right?

05-22-2010, 12:48 PM	#15
Homeslice Elitist Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: SF Bay Area Moto: Gix 750 Posts: 11,351	Hmm, if rear was lowered and the front wasn't, that would explain why it turned in so slow. You should definitely take it back to the tuner, because now you've put more weight on the front end. It will probably need more preload in front to compensate. Better to take it to someone who will make measurements of what needs to be done.

05-22-2010, 03:07 PM	#17
Captain Morgan Let's do another U-turn Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Indiana Moto: 2009 V-Strom Posts: 3,816	Buy this book and have a friend help you set up the suspension. I need to find my copy and have my brother help me with the Strom http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Perf...4555150&sr=8-1

05-22-2010, 08:49 PM	#19
No Worries Keyboard Racer Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mile High City Moto: Old Superbikes Posts: 1,016	Sport Rider Magazine has suggested suspension settings for every bike they've tested since '96. Here's what they suggest for a CBR900: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html That should put you in the ballpark.