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Old 08-28-2009, 09:36 PM   #1
BobTheBiker
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Default 96 S10 fuel issue

Anyone have some ideas here?

I've got a 96 S10 2.2, everyting is wired up right, and hooked up where its supposed to be, but I cant get the truck to run because the fuel injectors arent firing as they need to be. I've got ONE plug I cant figure out, looks just like the cam position sensor plug, but the notch is different and theres nowhere for it to go on my motor.

Right now, the truck runs with ether in the intake, but wont start on its own. I'm not really sure WTF to make of it, but its annoying as shit.

anyone got some input? My only idea now is ECU is toast.
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:52 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by BobTheBiker View Post
Anyone have some ideas here?

I've got a 96 S10 2.2, everyting is wired up right, and hooked up where its supposed to be, but I cant get the truck to run because the fuel injectors arent firing as they need to be. I've got ONE plug I cant figure out, looks just like the cam position sensor plug, but the notch is different and theres nowhere for it to go on my motor.

Right now, the truck runs with ether in the intake, but wont start on its own. I'm not really sure WTF to make of it, but its annoying as shit.

anyone got some input? My only idea now is ECU is toast.
If the vehicle runs off of ether, then the CAM and CRANK signals are ok or at least enough to run the engine.

Does the fuel pump energize with the key initially turned ON?

Check the ECM IGN 20A fuse that supplies ignition voltages to all 4 fuel injectors. Then make sure there is 12V at each fuel injector with the key on, engine off.

If you can get ahold of a noid light, you can plug it into one of the fuel injector connectors and crank over the engine. If the noid light blinks, you probably have a fuel delivery/regulator/fuel issue.

The ECM BATT 20A fuse feeds the fuel pump relay, but the the fuel pump will run w/o the relay if oil pressure is present (bypass).
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:59 AM   #3
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I was looking at it more earlier and the issue dawned on me. I had the wrong fucking crank sensor in there. people keep saying how the crank sensor is behind the motor mount, but never mention a wire going to the coil off it, so I had to go swap with the one off my original block, along with the original coils.
BAM! problem seems to no longer be a problem, and all but 3 plugs(former AC system and one evap unit) now have homes. I'll test better in the AM since I'm in an apartment complex and theres little kids livin next to where I work on my truck. dont need angry neighbors.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:43 PM   #4
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How are we supposed to fix ur shit when you have the incorrect parts installed. Hit urself in the head!
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:09 AM   #5
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that was a TOTAL brainfart. I done more than hit myself. I went and drank myself dumb a few hours ago as punishment. who are you again?
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:31 AM   #6
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The master of all automotive.
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:49 AM   #7
BobTheBiker
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You cant be the master of all automotive. I know that guy. his name was jesus and he has a beard.

anyways, the fuel issue is sorted, but now when I rev it, its got a nasty rattle from somewhere. I'm inclined to say the belt tensioner because the belt on it is obscenely small and puttin a good deal of strain on the tensioner. plus a portion of my belt actually got shredded today as I watched. glad my fingers werent in the way.

this noise only happens briefly then disappears, and only happens on quick acceleration of the motor's rpms. doesnt sound like a constant rattle from top or bottom end like a bearing going out.
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