Minor Winter Project - installing suspension worth 1/3 of the bike

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

Over-sprung or under-sprung, it's still not the right spring rate for your weight

I have no idea what the stock spring rate is for the ER, as it doesn't appear to be in the shop manual, but I would guess it to be over-sprung like the Ninja 650R is (an insane 1.2Kg/mm). I guess that they did this to hide the fact that they used damper rod forks, in what is nominally a sportbike.

Bikes like the SV650 are grossly under-sprung. They're perfect if you're a 120 pounder, but not so much for anyone else. My '00 VFR800 had something like 0.75 Kg/mm springs. I needed 0.95, and that was for a plush sport-touring style ride. I don't think that the more recent VFRs have stronger rate springs than that.

TOTALLY agree with getting springs, I have done so on almost every bike I've ever owned-including cruisers. That's a couple hundred bucks max... Spending 2k on suspension on an old bike... Well, what about the brakes? Transmission? Unsprung weight? Rake and trail? Total bike weight? There have been advances in more that just hp bro... My bike now kicks the crap out of my old FZR1000 in every category, seriously.

[Papa_Complex]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

TOTALLY agree with getting springs, I have done so on almost every bike I've ever owned-including cruisers. That's a couple hundred bucks max... Spending 2k on suspension on an old bike... Well, what about the brakes? Transmission? Unsprung weight? Rake and trail? Total bike weight? There have been advances in more that just hp bro... My bike now kicks the crap out of my old FZR1000 in every category, seriously.

Well, to start with, I've only done it on NEW bikes myself, not old ones. My ER is a 2009, bought new this year.

And just swapping out the fork springs potentially leaves you with a poorly damped setup. I'm dropping in a full cartridge setup for about $700.00

Brakes? I could replace the brake lines with stainless, but I've found that I get most of the benefit of them with just a pad swap.

Transmission? Works beautifully, thank-you very much. Especially so when I'm above 7K rpm.

Rake and trail? It's fine for me. Ergonomics were more of a concern, which I handled by just swapping the bars for a straighter set.

Unsprung weight? That would be nice, but the suspension alone will make the ride head and shoulders above the stock setup. If it comes right down to it I could likely do a wheel swap still coming out at less than that $3K more total that you stated, to which I would be adding $1.5-$2K in suspension mods anyway.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

Well, to start with, I've only done it on NEW bikes myself, not old ones. My ER is a 2009, bought new this year.

And just swapping out the fork springs potentially leaves you with a poorly damped setup. I'm dropping in a full cartridge setup for about $700.00

Brakes? I could replace the brake lines with stainless, but I've found that I get most of the benefit of them with just a pad swap.

Transmission? Works beautifully, thank-you very much. Especially so when I'm above 7K rpm.

Rake and trail? It's fine for me. Ergonomics were more of a concern, which I handled by just swapping the bars for a straighter set.

Unsprung weight? That would be nice, but the suspension alone will make the ride head and shoulders above the stock setup. If it comes right down to it I could likely do a wheel swap still coming out at less than that $3K more total that you stated, to which I would be adding $1.5-$2K in suspension mods anyway.

Yea I dipped in at the suggestion that No Worries upgrade his suspension, I wasn't really refering to your bike, bro....

[Homeslice]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

Brakes? I could replace the brake lines with stainless, but I've found that I get most of the benefit of them with just a pad swap.
.

Truth..

I've added steel lines to 2 cars and 1 bike, and couldn't tell the difference. Never again.

[Papa_Complex]

Originally Posted by Homeslice

Truth..

I've added steel lines to 2 cars and 1 bike, and couldn't tell the difference. Never again.

It's worth doing after maybe 5 years, after the stock lines have started to give under pressure, but really not with a newish bike.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

It's worth doing after maybe 5 years, after the stock lines have started to give under pressure, but really not with a newish bike.

What? Aw shoot, I thought there was talk about him upgrading his old CBR and I thought that he should get a newer bike instead... A friend of mine just got an '06 GSXR1000 for $2800. No bs. He's still in Michigan so the bike had low miles. All it needed was tires and some minor body work. Just saying that swapping the old CBR for this GSXR WOULD be a suspension upgrade...and a brake upgrade...ect...

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

It's worth doing after maybe 5 years, after the stock lines have started to give under pressure, but really not with a newish bike.

To each their own...steel lines are right after the exhaust for me on a new bike.

[Papa_Complex]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

To each their own...steel lines are right after the exhaust for me on a new bike.

Try EBC or SBS sintered pads next time, first.

I tend not to decide on what mods to make until I've actually ridden the bike

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Papa_Complex

Try EBC or SBS sintered pads next time, first.

I tend not to decide on what mods to make until I've actually ridden the bike

Do I smell an insult? I do replace the pads as well (I'm running Ferodo now but I also like Dunlopad, I've often used EBC/SBS pads in the past) and I do ride a bike before I modify it... The experience of owning about 10 bikes tells me that I like steel lines and sintered pads on the brakes. Regardless of how good you think your brakes are, steel lines make them better. An opinion of course but one shared by most serious riders. You take pictures of racers, how many still use the stock brake lines? None that I know...