Awesoime!!! Engine isn't stuck

[pauldun170]

Ok...new starter solenoid is in.
Battery at 11.999999v
Just a click from junction box.

Can't devote too much time to it this weekend.
Next steps
1. Disassemble starter switch. Stare at its innards. Perhaps unload a can of electrical cleaner on the guts
2. Continue removal of all bodywork

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by pauldun170

Ok...new starter solenoid is in.
Battery at 11.999999v
Just a click from junction box.

Can't devote too much time to it this weekend.
Next steps
1. Disassemble starter switch. Stare at its innards. Perhaps unload a can of electrical cleaner on the guts
2. Continue removal of all bodywork

Before you get too far into it, re-check the battery and do a load test. It may show 11.99999v on your multi-meter, but batteries are fucking liars and are not to be trusted.

Put the tester back on, then hit the starter switch. If the reading drops more than a couple of volts, the battery may have a bad cell (or 6...). If you do have some bad cells, you aren't going to get enough cranking amps to get the job done, and what your ass needs is a new battery.

JC

[pauldun170]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Before you get too far into it, re-check the battery and do a load test. It may show 11.99999v on your multi-meter, but batteries are fucking liars and are not to be trusted.

Put the tester back on, then hit the starter switch. If the reading drops more than a couple of volts, the battery may have a bad cell (or 6...). If you do have some bad cells, you aren't going to get enough cranking amps to get the job done, and what your ass needs is a new battery.

JC

Ooooh....good tip

[No Worries]

I would be lucky to get my neutral and oil pressure lights on with a battery reading of under 12.0 volts. Forget about cranking.

[Captain Morgan]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Before you get too far into it, re-check the battery and do a load test. It may show 11.99999v on your multi-meter, but batteries are fucking liars and are not to be trusted.

Put the tester back on, then hit the starter switch. If the reading drops more than a couple of volts, the battery may have a bad cell (or 6...). If you do have some bad cells, you aren't going to get enough cranking amps to get the job done, and what your ass needs is a new battery.

JC

Yep. This happened with my car. I was driving one evening this summer and turned on the lights and the car died. I thought the alternator was shot, but it was a bad cell in the battery. Apparently, the alternator in my car was fine, but simply doesn't put out enough juice to run the A/C compressor, cooling fan and lights all at the same time. Turning on the lights was all it took to kill the car.

[askmrjesus]

I should probably add that the aforementioned load test, needs to be done on a fully charged (or as fully charged as you can get it) battery.

Load testing a partially charged batt, will result in false readings and conclusions.

No Worries makes a good point. You should be reading somewhere around 12.75 on a topped up batt, especially if you're trying to start a very cold (sub-freezing) bike.

JC