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#1 |
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DILLIGAF?
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Austin, Texas, USA, Earth, Sol, Western Spiral Arm, Milky Way
Moto: 1993 K75SA
Posts: 483
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"Normally" the regulator/rectifier pack is the failure point in most motorcycle charging systems. It is simply reassuring to know if there is a voltage test for the stator/rotor output that would eliminate any doubt about the health of the coils in the stator. A resistance test is fine, but nothing would beat a voltage output check.
At this point, I'd go ahead and get a new R/R pack, and see what you get.
__________________
"Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?" "Learn to do the counter-intuitive things that may one day save your ass..." "... Love Much, Laugh Often..." - Amanda Kay Corso (January 18, 1980 - April 15, 2008) |
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#2 |
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Trip's Assistant
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Imported from Detroit
Moto: 2009 HD Street Classic
Posts: 12,149
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Yeah usually if the stator tests fine then its the rectifier
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#3 |
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Keyboard Racer
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mile High City
Moto: Old Superbikes
Posts: 1,016
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The GS series of Suzuki engines from the late 70's to mid 80's are pretty much bulletproof. But the charging system is problematic. A lot has to do with the grounds that don't because of corrosion. The best article I've seen on how to test a regulator, rectifier (my GS1000 came with separate regulator and rectifier), and stator is the famous "Stator Papers" on the GS Resources site: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm.
Rick's Motorsport Electrics, and Electrex make great electrical components. They can be had out of the Parts Unlimited book at your local shop. |
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#4 |
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AMA Supersport
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richmond, Tx
Moto: '10 Tuono Factory
Posts: 4,569
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i wired up 2 small computer fans over the R/R and when the bike is on the fans are on.
i've had 1 R/R go bad.
__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ 2014 GROM! 181cc of FURY 2010 Aprilia Tuono Factory - SOLD 2009 SFV Gladius - SOLD 2008 Hayabusa - SOLD. |
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#5 |
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Keyboard Racer
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mile High City
Moto: Old Superbikes
Posts: 1,016
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#6 |
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Canyon Carver
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 429
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Also make sure you have a very good contacts at the 3 yellow wires plug. They tend to melt and over heat and take out the R/R if not.
Also make sure you mount the R/R to the stock location normally a piece of alumimum is there that transfers the heat away from th unit. I have seen lots of guys move them to a plastic mount or even leave them loose and then wonder why they keep going bad. Do not charge a dead battery with your bike. Inother words if you ahve to jump start your bike take the battery off and use a charger not the bike to charge the battery. It over taxes the R/R. Consider a larger heatsink Alumimum piece behind the R/R and or use a heat conductive liquid between them. (white stuff found between a transistor and heat sink) Can be bought at radio shack. The fan is also a great idea. I had a F3 that would eat them and I installed a F4 R/R because it had a larger heatsink attached to it the F3 did not have any fins on the R/R. Also make sure that new pipe is not putting more heat near the R/R. A lot of guys remove things like heat sheilds (sometimes a thick rubber mat) from there bikes cause they think its not for anything special. Its a heat sheild thats flexible. Be sure not to remove them. |
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