New chain and sprockets

[Kerry_129]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

First, what's my race got to do with it?

You ain't right.

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

There is - #50 chain is .625" pitch (pin-to-pin distance).
But the wear point is toward the drive-face of the tooth, and not something you can simply measure with calipers. You're right that heavy wear and/or play between the roller & tooth is easy to see - once it's badly worn and pretty obvious. What I'm saying is that even if it looks/feels 'fine', it will still be worn a bit and that wear will accelerate the chain wear due to the elongated pitch between teeth (I believe due to the 'rollers' rotating a bit more as they engage under load rather than seating into the circular tooth 'roots' with minimal rotation).
How much & at what point will it 'use up' $20 worth of chain-life? Dunno, but I think best-practice is just to do it right & swap the damn thing!

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China. The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

Actually, what I wrote was:
I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

If I were considering buying a $5000 Hyosung vs. say, a $10,000 Suzuki - would the same ASSumptions regarding the possibility of lower quality/materials/lifespan/failure-rate not be valid? How 'bout a HarborFreight socket wrench vs. a Snap-On?

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

You ain't right.



There is - #50 chain is .625" pitch (pin-to-pin distance).
But the wear point is toward the drive-face of the tooth, and not something you can simply measure with calipers. You're right that heavy wear and/or play between the roller & tooth is easy to see - once it's badly worn and pretty obvious. What I'm saying is that even if it looks/feels 'fine', it will still be worn a bit and that wear will accelerate the chain wear due to the elongated pitch between teeth (I believe due to the 'rollers' rotating a bit more as they engage under load rather than seating into the circular tooth 'roots' with minimal rotation).
How much & at what point will it 'use up' $20 worth of chain-life? Dunno, but I think best-practice is just to do it right & swap the damn thing!



Actually, what I wrote was:
I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

If I were considering buying a $5000 Hyosung vs. say, a $10,000 Suzuki - would the same ASSumptions regarding the possibility of lower quality/materials/lifespan/failure-rate not be valid? How 'bout a HarborFreight socket wrench vs. a Snap-On?

Ah I love a good argument...

Okay, used the example of a HF socket wrench vs a Snap-on correct? I agree that the Snap on should be a better tool BUT is it a $75- $10 quality increase? Did you know that the largest cc bike made could operate on a 4000 lb chain?

[No Worries]

I like Esjot sprockets: http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/esjotfront.cfm Made in Germany. And of course, DID chain. DID makes O-ring chain in 630 for my 80HP Suzuki. Talk about overkill. But I did get 55K miles on the OEM.

[Particle Man]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Ah I love a good argument...

Okay, used the example of a HF socket wrench vs a Snap-on correct? I agree that the Snap on should be a better tool BUT is it a $75- $10 quality increase?

It may be - I've used el-cheapo HF tools instead of more expensive stuff once and did more damage to what I was working on than the difference in cost between the cheap tool and the more expensive. It's all relative.

[OneSickPsycho]

Originally Posted by Particle Man

It may be - I've used el-cheapo HF tools instead of more expensive stuff once and did more damage to what I was working on than the difference in cost between the cheap tool and the more expensive. It's all relative.

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by OneSickPsycho

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

Yea, it's a tough call... I've gotten some really good stuff from HF and I've gotten some craptastic tools from Sears-Robo grips come to mind IMMEDIATELY!!! I have to admit that the ONLY tools that I've gotten that I haven't had any problems with were Snap-On but $2-300 for a wrench set is a bit much! The socket wrench example calls to mind the fact that I basically had to return my socket wrench to Sears every month or so when I was using it every day for work. Sure they have a lifetime warranty but guess what? So does Harbor Freight, I've returned tools there several times without any hassle.

[Amber Lamps]

To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good. I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.

[Hydrant]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good. I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.

That is the stock chain off the TLR with about 10k miles on it. Adjusted correctly, lubed all the time. I wasn't hammering it, just cruising at 50 mph. It let go right behind the master link.






Its pretty mangled because it got caught in the swingarm and cush locking the rear tire.

[Particle Man]

Originally Posted by OneSickPsycho

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

if I'm crawling under a car or something I want the jack to work... something about the possibility of having a car land on me makes me cautious

[OneSickPsycho]

Originally Posted by Particle Man

if I'm crawling under a car or something I want the jack to work... something about the possibility of having a car land on me makes me cautious

Jackstands.... I don't get under a vehicle without them.